박성희 Sung-hee Park , 김한곤 Han-kon Kim , 정규혁 Kyu-hyuck Jeong , 김진웅 Jin-woong Kim

DOI:

Abstract

We describe here how we can use microfluidic technologies for fabricating functional materials that could be potentially utilized in cosmetics; these include void structures, functional particulate materials, shell materials, and multi-layered colloids. We can obtain these functional materials as microfluidic approaches provide precise control over both outer dimensions and inner morphology of emulsion drops in picoliter-volume scales with high throughput. We have confirmed that this technique has a great potential to fabricate novel particles and capsules with a variety of chemical compositions as well as higher orders of layers. This microfluidic approach will allow us to develop a lot of new techniques that are useful for a variety of applications, including delivery systems, chemical separations, bio-sensing, actuators, and so on. We do believe that these new techniques will help cosmetic industry not only give rise advanced functional materials and systems but also widen its product categories.

Key Words

microfluidics, drops, capsules, delivery, cosmetics

김진영 Jin Young Kim , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase and components of Castanea crenata leaf were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical, DPPH) scavenging activity (FSC₅₀) of extract / fractions of Castanea crenata leaf was in the order: 50 % ethanol extract (13.6 µg/mL) < ethyl acetate fraction (6.2) < aglycone fraction (2.1). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities (OSC₅₀) of extract/fractions from Castanea crenata leaf extract / fractions on ROS generated in Fe³⁺-EDTA/H₂O₂ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activity was in the order: aglycone fraction (0.8) < 50 % ethanol extract (0.5) < ethyl acetate fraction (0.3). The scavenging activity (IC₅₀) for O₂^·-(superoxide anion radical) generated by NBT method was in the order: ethyl acetate fraction (145.5) < aglycone fraction (65.5). The protective effects on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent cellular protective effect (τ₅₀, 191.9 ± 12.2 min at 10 µg/mL). The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction (9.1 µg/mL) on elastase was higher than oleanolic acid (13.7 µg/mL). And the inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction (21.6 µg/mL) on tyrosinase was higher than arbutin (226.2 µg/mL). But 50 % ethanol extract rarely exhibited the inhibitory activity on tyrosinase and elastase. Flavonoids were contained in Castanea crenata leaf (96.3 mg / 100 g dried Castanea crenata leaf). And flavonoids contained in ethyl acetate fraction were kaempferol, quercetin, quercitrin, and so on. Quercitrin is the most abundant component. These results indicate that extract / fractions of Castanea crenata can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging free radical and ROS, Castanea crenata leaf extract / fractions could be used as a new cosmeceutical for whitening and anti-wrinkle products.

Key Words

Castanea crenata, anti-oxidative activity, tyrosinase, flavonoids, cosmetics

전상훈 Sang Hoon Jeon , 권순상 Sun Sang Kwon , 김덕희 Duck Hee Kim , 심민경 Min Kyung Shim , 최영진 Young Jin Choi , 한상훈 Sang Hoon Han

DOI:

Abstract

In this study we successfully altered the structural characteristics of the mica surface and were able to control oil-absorption by using the microwave enhanced etching (MEE) technique, which has originally been used in semiconductor industry. When microwave energy is applied to the mica, the surface of the mica is etched in a few minutes. As the result of etching, oil-absorption of the mica was enhanced and surface whiteness was improved by modifying the silicon dioxide layer. Additionally, the high whiteness was maintained even though the etched mica absorbed the sebum or sweat. The surface modification of mica was performed by microwave irradiation after the treatment of hydrofluoric acid. The degree of etching was regulated by acid concentration, irradiation time, the amount of energy and slurry concentration. The surface morphology of the etched mica appears to be the shape of the ‘Moon'. The characteristics of surface area and roughness were examined by Brunauer-Emmett-Teller (BET) surface area analysis, atomic force microscopy (AFM), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), spectrophotometer and goniophotometer.

Key Words

microwave enhanced etching, surface modification, oil-absorption, mica, cosmetics

양희정 Hee Jung Yang , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, we investigated the anti-oxidative, anti-wrinkle and whitening effects of Platycarya strobilacea bark extracts. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity (FSC₅₀) of extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea was in the order: 50 % ethanol extract (6.75 μg/mL) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction (6.62 μg/mL) < ethyl acetate fraction (4.15 μg/mL). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities (OSC₅₀) of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts on ROS generated in Fe³⁺-EDTA/H₂O₂ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activity was ethyl acetate fraction (OSC₅₀, 0.56 μg/mL) < 50 % ethanol extract (0.02 μg/mL) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction (0.01 μg/mL). The deglycosylated aglycone fraction showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethanol extract (50 %) suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner, particularly ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent cellular protective effect (τ₅₀, 717.27 min at 10 μg/mL). The inhibitory effect of Platycarya strobilacea extracts on tyrosinase were investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Finally, their anti-elastase activities were measured to predict the anti-wrinkle efficacy in the human skin. The inhibitory effect (IC₅₀) on tyrosinase of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts was 50 % ethanol extract (243.98 μg/mL) < ethyl acetate fraction (153.87 μg/mL) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction (137.53 μg/mL). Also, The inhibitory effect of elastase (IC₅₀) of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts was 50 % ethanol extract (31.01 μg/mL) < ethyl acetate fraction (14.42 μg/mL) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction (1.48 μg/mL). The cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction of Platycarya strobilacea extracts was formulated. The skin hydration, transepidermal water loss, and the whitening effects were investigated after topical application of the cream. The skin hydration of cream containing extract was increased by 2 ∼ 8 % than the placebo cream, transepidermal water loss was decreased. The cream containing extract supressed the melanogenesis of skin by 9.55 % than the placebo cream. These results indicate that extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by anti-oxidative activity and protect cellular membranes against ROS. The inhibitory effect on elastase and tyrosinase, and the increase of skin hydration and the whitening effect of the cream containing extract could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antiaging.

Key Words

Platycarya strobilacea, flavonoid, antioxidative activity, tyrosinase, cosmetics

이기무 Ki-moo Lee , 이은창 Eun-chang Lee , 조순장 Soon-chang Cho , 문석식 Surk-sik Moon

DOI:

Abstract

In order to develop a new depigmenting agent, extracts were obtained from 60 native plants and their antimelanogenic activities were screened by evaluating the inhibitory effect on tyrosinase which is a major enzyme responsibles for the melanin synthesis. The extracts of Trichosanthes kirilowii fruits, Phyllostachys bambusoides inner films (BIF), Clerodendrum trichotomum leaves, and Acer okamotoanum leaves showed relatively high inhibitory effect on tyrosinase and their IC₅₀ values were 50 ∼ 100 μg/mL. The extract of BIF inhibited melanin synthesis of B16F10 melanoma cells by 52 %, which was the highest among those of various extracts. Furthermore, the effect of BIF extract is 10 % higher than that of arbutin (42 %), a popular depigmenting agent in Korea. Ten compounds having antimelanogenic activity were isolated from the BIF extract by solvent extraction and chromatography. These compounds were identified as phenolic derivatives: SM701, SM702, SM703, and BPR211 were hydroquinone derivatives; SM707 a gallic acid derivative; SM704, SM705, SM706, SM708 and SM709 ferulic acid derivatives. The free radical scavenging activities of these compounds were measured and compared to those of hydroquinone and vitamin C. The SC₅₀ values scavenging 50 % DPPH of SM702 and SM709 were 60 ∼ 70 μM similar to that of hydroquinone and those of SM701 and SM708 were 30 ∼ 40 μM slightly lower than that of vitamin C. These results suggest the presence of components having high antioxidant activity in the BIF extract. The SM709, identified as 1,2-O-diferulylglycerol, inhibited the activities of tyrosine hydroxylase and dopa oxidase by 18 and 60 %, respectively. The SM709 also inhibited the melanin synthesis of B16F10 melanoma cells by 62 % and this was the highest antimelanogenic activity among those obtained from the various purified compounds. Therefore, antimelanogenic activity of the BIF extract was concluded to be due to both inhibition of DOPA oxidase and antioxidant activity.

Key Words

bamboo, plant, 1,2-O-diferulylglycerol, phenolic, depigmenting

박창민 Chang-min Park , 이순영 Soon-young Lee , 정민석 Min-seok Joung , 최종완 Jong-wan Choi

DOI:

Abstract

Deficiency of collagen regeneration, denaturalization of elastic fibers, and promotion of reactive oxygen species formation are important factors for deterioration of skin function. They induce wrinckle formation and decrease skin elasticity. Vitamin C and its derivatives have been used as cosmetic ingredients for anti-aging effects but their chemical instability has been a major problem. In an attempt to develop a novel anti-aging agent with a improved stability and bioactivity, the anti-wrinkle effect of 3-O-cetyl-L-ascorbic acid (VCCE), a new vitamin C derivative, was investigated in this study. VCCE increased procollagen type-1 synthesis in a dose-dependent manner (149 % at 0.002 %) in cultured fiboroblasts. Its potent anti-wrinkle effect was confirmed in vivo by analyzing human skin replica by a visiometer and the PRIMOS system. It did not cause any irritation in human patch test. Taken together, our findings suggest that the VCCE has potential benefits applicable to cosmetics for anti-wrinkle effects.

Key Words

3-O-cetyl-L-ascorbic acid (VCCE), anti-wrinkle, L-ascorbic acid, cosmetic ingredient, procollagen type I

김정환 Jung Hoan Kim , 이옥섭 Ok-sub Lee , 한지숙 Ji-sook Han , 신성연 Sung-yeon Shin , 백두현 Doo-hyun Baek , 하병조 Byung-jo Ha

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, we have investigated the effects of ultraviolet (UV) irradiation on the external and internal structure of human hair. For changes in morphological and chemical structure of UV-exposed hair, we utilized several microscopic techniques such as scanning electron microscope (SEM), transmission electron microscope (TEM), confocal laser scanning microscope (CLSM), and etc. The SEM showed the scales of UV-exposed hair appeared to be rough and bulkier because of chemical oxidation during UV irradiation. Small bulgy area of UV-exposed hair surface was appeared as a result of the decomposition in cysteic acid. In the TEM picture, the UV-exposed hair showed the cleaved aperture of hair and destruction of melanin granules. Three dimensional topographical images were obtained by using CLSM. In the optical single section, high fluorescent intensity appeared in virgin hair. In the case of UV-exposed hair, low fluorescence intensity appeared. This means the aromatic amino acids in virgin hair were more abundant than UV-exposed hair.

Key Words

UV-exposed hair, SEM, TEM, CLSM, morphological changes

조완구 Wan Goo Cho , 박효순 Hyo Soon Park , 안병준 Byoung Joon Ahn

DOI:

Abstract

Some surfactants known as biosurfactants, are produced biologically by yeast and bacteria from various substances. They are more effective and environmentally friendly than many other synthetic surfactants. Antimicrobial activities of sophorolipids produced by Candida bombiocola were investigated against various microorganisms. Minimal Inhibitory concentration (MIC) of sophorolipid against S. mutans, C. xerosis, and P. acnes were 0.005, 0.05, and 0.005 %, respectively. The antimicrobiological activities were more effective than those of SLS and APG. Skin exfoliating and moisturizing effects of vehicles with the sophorolipids were tested. The skin turnover time of aqueous solution with 0.25 % sophorolipids was similar to that of aqueous solution with 5.0 % lactic acid. Higher moisturizing effects on skin showed as the concentration of sophorolipids increased. We suggest that the sophorolipids can be used for cosmetics as an antimicrobiological agent and an active materials of skin moisturizing and exfoliating.

Key Words

sophorolipids, antimicrobiological, exfoliating agents, moisturing, cosmetics

조은미 Eun Mi Cho , 배준태 Jun Tae Bae , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo , 이근수 Geun Su Lee

DOI:

Abstract

This study was carried to investigate the efficiency of antimicrobial plant extracts as natural preservative in the cosmetic formulations. Ethanol extracts of different plants were tested using the disc diffusion (paper disc) method and the minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) method for their antimicrobial activity against the common poultry pathogens. Terminalia chebula and Rhus japonica (gallut) extracts exhibited antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Escherichia coli. Cinnmomum cassia extract exhibited antifungal activity against Candida albicans and Aspergillus niger while the remaining plant extracts showed no activity. A study of the preservative efficacy of the cosmetic formular containing the T. chebula, R. japonica and C. cassia extracts demonstrated sufficient preservative efficacy against bacteria and eukaryotic test microbes. Also, the cosmetic formulations containing antimicrobial plant extracts more effectively inhibited the microoranisms than the mixture of traditional chemical preservatives. These results suggest that the mixture of antimicrobial plant extracts, T. chebula, R. japonica and C. cassia is incorporated as preservative in the cosmetic formulation and the mixture have considerable effect on its efficacy.

Key Words

antimicrobial plant extracts, antimicrobial activity, preservative efficacy, chemical preservatives, cosmetic

박신영 Shinyoung Park , 남개원 Gaewon Nam , 김승훈 Seunghun Kim , 이해광 Heakang Lee , 안성연 Sungyeon Ahn , 문성준 Seongjoon Moon , 김한곤 Hankon Kim

DOI:

Abstract

The evaluation for the visage volume was performed with human and dummy face using PRIMOS body^Ⓡ. Three researchers measured the dummy face attached different volume of clay (6.6 mL, 13.2 mL, and 19.8 mL). It is identified that the high correlation between measured values and real volume (R² = 0.99). The percent (%) of relative standard deviation (RSD) of the data was shown below 10 %. In Gage R&R analysis, the percent of contribution, the percent of study variation and distinct categories values were 0.78 %, 8.85 %, and 15 % respectively. Therefore this method was regarded as the good standard condition in aspect of reproducibility and repetitiveness of data. The face volume variation was measured by PRIMOS body^Ⓡ on the face in participated 10 healthy Korean women volunteers. Subjects used the product once a day for two weeks as night sleeping pack. After application of the test products, the 3D image data of face were taken 1 and 2 weeks later. We found the face volume was significantly decreased after using products. In conclusion, this novel non-invasive technique was useful in measuring and visualizing alterations in face volume as a consequence of certain treatments. This system will provide a rapid and precise analysis of 3D topographical information for face.

Key Words

PRIMOS body^Ⓡ, 3D image, face volume, validation, % RSD, Gage R&R